Chugach National Forest
Alaska
August 2019
The main trail selected for the book, however, is not in Denali but the Trail of Blue Ice, which I discovered near Portage Lake Road, south of Anchorage on a business trip in May 2019. I noticed the trail and found it appealing because it combined accessibility, gravel paths, boardwalks, bridges, forests, lakes, mountains, and glacier views. Online descriptions identified it as roughly five miles long, with side trail options. The plan was to complete it over two days in manageable out-and-back sections.
I wanted to be as prepared as possible
and manage the risk in Alaska’s wilderness, especially because the trail passes
through black and brown bear habitat. I purchased a can of bear spray, studied
how to use it, and as extra precaution, I added a loud bicycle bell to
Kellisa’s mobility chair to make regular noise on the trail. We also followed general
bear-safety practices, including traveling in a pair, making noise near blind
corners, and being especially cautious around berry patches. These preparations
help us feel ready, though I remained
highly alert throughout the hike.
On the first day, we begin at Portage
Lake, despite an official guide noting that the first 700 feet are not ADA
compliant. The section proved manageable, though narrow and slightly steep, and
I kept Kellisa tethered for safety. The scenery was striking: Portage Lake with
glacier-covered mountains rising above wildflowers, berries, and deep forests,
while intense sunlight almost blinded out in the open field. Because heat and
direct sun can trigger Kellisa’s seizures, we didn’t spend too much time
enjoying the wide-open spaces.
Soon after entering a wooded section, we
encounter fresh steaming bear scat on the trail. After checking the
surroundings and consulting our wildlife-biologist cousin (Matt) by phone, we
made the decision to continue rather than turn back, reasoning that bear risk
exists anywhere in the Alaskan wilderness.
The hike continued through forest, around
lakes, open mountain views, and a side trip onto the Williwaw Nature Trail.
This detour proved rewarding, with valley views, boardwalks, bridges, lakes,
salmon visible in clear water, and abundant birdlife. We eventually looped back
through a campground and reconnected with the Trail of Blue Ice. Returning in
the opposite direction gives the familiar trail a new feel because the
mountains and glaciers appear from different angles. Near the end, we selected a
road walk back to our rental SUV which avoided repeating the initial
non-accessible section. We finished safely and returned to Anchorage for dinner
and an early bedtime.
The next day’s plan was ambitious:
visit Kenai Fjords National Park, get close to a glacier, and still complete
the remaining portion of the Trail of Blue Ice before flying home. However, the
plan changed dramatically when Kellisa had a severe seizure while we were
driving. As I was monitoring Kellisa carefully, I pulled into a rest area,
reclined her seat, positioned her body oh her left side, and prepared her
rescue medication. With no cell service and limited access to medical help, I
administered Diastat when the seizure reached five minutes, but the medication
did not work as quickly as usual. As the seizure continued, I considered giving
a second dose but hesitated because I didn’t have medical guidance and feared over
medicating her. I decided to drive back toward a state trooper I remembered
passing on the side of the road shortly before the seizure started with the
hope that the officer could summon help.
By the time we reached the trooper’s location,
the officer was gone, and Kellisa’s seizure was approaching nine minutes. Just
as I prepared to continue driving toward medical help, Kellisa finally came out
of the seizure. She began showing familiar post-seizure signs—a partial smile
and faint giggle—which was reassuring. Exhausted and shaken, I abandoned the
day’s plans and drove back toward Anchorage. Kellisa soon fell asleep, and I
was emotionally drained. I decided to find a quiet shaded park where I could
relax. I was asleep in a deep nap shortly after finding a peaceful location in
Girdwood, AK.
Later, Kellisa wakes fully recovered
and hungry. As I drove us along the Turnagain Arm towards dinner, Kellisa and I
decided to someday return to finish the Trail of Blue Ice.
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